From sunseekers to snowbirds, surfers, and off-roaders, it seems like nearly everyone I've talked to is planning to go to Baja this winter. The promise of warmer temperatures, beach camping, and finding solace in remote desert locations has mass appeal. Getting up to the sound of coyotes chattering, frolicking in sparkling bioluminescence in the Sea of Cortez with friends, spotting dolphins leaping out from the Pacific, and visiting vibrant cave paintings from long ago were some of the very special moments of my recent visit